The Agafay Desert, Marrakech

A plateau of stone, not a sea of sand. What it actually is, and whether it is right for your trip.

Luxury tents on the open plateau of the Agafay Desert near Marrakech

Agafay sits about thirty kilometres south-west of Marrakech, on the way to the foothills of the High Atlas. It is dry, pale and open. The ground is rock and gravel, cut by shallow canyons that fill with shadow at the end of the day. There are no dunes. In spring, after rain, there is grass.

Most descriptions of Agafay quietly avoid this and lean on photographs that could have been taken anywhere. We would rather be straight about it, because the people who enjoy Agafay most are the ones who arrive knowing what it is.

Agafay or the Sahara

This is the question worth answering before any other. The Sahara proper starts around Merzouga and Zagora. From Marrakech that is seven to nine hours of driving each way, which realistically means three days. What you get for it is the erg, the actual dunes, and there is no substitute for them.

Agafay is forty minutes away. What you get is silence, a very large sky, and the Atlas closing the horizon to the south, white until late spring. What you do not get is sand.

If you have three days, go south. If you have one night and want to sleep somewhere that feels nothing like a city, Agafay does that better than anywhere else within reach of Marrakech.

Getting there

The road out through Lalla Takerkoust is straightforward and paved most of the way. The final approach to most camps is piste, which is fine in a normal car driven slowly, and unpleasant in one driven quickly. Almost everyone takes a transfer, which we arrange from your riad, your hotel or the airport.

When to come

  • March to MayThe best of the year. Warm days, cold nights, snow still on the Atlas
  • June to AugustHot in the middle of the day. Come for the evening, or stay by the pool
  • September to NovemberSecond best. Clear light, comfortable temperatures
  • December to FebruaryBright, mild days and genuinely cold nights. Fewest people

What there is to do

Less than you might think, which is the point. There are camel rides, quads, buggies and horses, and they are worth an hour each. The rest of the time the plateau does the work.

You can come for an afternoon, an evening, or stay the night. If it is only one, make it the night. The hour before dark and the hour after first light are the two that people remember.

Common questions about Agafay

What is the Agafay Desert?
A dry, rocky plateau south-west of Marrakech, between the city and the foothills of the High Atlas. The ground is stone and gravel, cut by shallow canyons. It is arid rather than sandy.
How far is Agafay from Marrakech?
Around 30 kilometres, which is roughly 40 minutes by road from the centre. Traffic leaving the city matters more than the distance itself.
Is Agafay the same as the Sahara?
No, and anyone telling you otherwise is selling something. The Sahara begins around Merzouga and Zagora, seven to nine hours away by road. Agafay is a rocky plateau an hour from Marrakech.
Should I go to Agafay or the Sahara?
If you have three days and want dunes, go to the Sahara. If you have one night, Agafay gives you silence, an enormous sky and the Atlas on the horizon, without two days in a car.
When is the best time to visit?
Spring and autumn are the most comfortable. Winter days are clear and mild with snow on the Atlas, and winter nights are cold. Summer is hot in the middle of the day and best used early and late.
What should I wear?
Layers. The plateau is exposed, the sun is strong even in winter, and the temperature falls quickly after sunset. Closed shoes, a hat and a jacket, in every season.
Is Agafay worth visiting?
For the landscape, the light and the quiet, yes. If you are expecting Lawrence of Arabia dunes, you will be disappointed, which is why we would rather say so before you book.